the Former employee of agency of elite real estate of Kalinka Group after several training autotravel decided on circumnavigation in the car and in companies with a dog. About its movement in real time it is possible to watch in the blog Vokrugsvet's .
Mauritania — the transit country, travelers go through it to Senegal or Mali. Tourism as that here is not developed. Requisitions on roads – a commonplace. And if during travel across Mauritania I had everything successfully, in a border zone already on departure I literally made the way through barriers of beggars.
"You passedon the territory of national park, it is necessary to pay" — the Mauritian in the form of uncertain color and unclear appointment, tycha a finger in the greasy book explained.
U me there is an iron rule – any cash money on the border, only the minimum. First, difficulties with an exchange in other country meet and then paper signs simply vanish or remain for memory as souvenirs. Secondly, on "last" I always refuel gasoline before border. And thirdly, existence of money though reduces time for frontier transitions, but also increases appetites of their workers and, respectively, scales vymogatelstva.
Boleye all sellers of sheep slow down movement. On the eve of a Muslim holiday Kurban Bairam them sell the whole herds everywhere, almost to road.
We with Greta look here as the exotic tourists, everyone considers a duty to knock in a window and to tease a dog.
I Get the camera, the children right there run up in all directions!
In the center of the big village are costed by a well, near it women and children fill with canister water, and then carry on the yards.
In a well-groomed court yard on three-five pise-walled constructions of the roundish or square form, covered with a reed. The matter is that polygamy is popular in Senegal, and each spouse needs the certain dwelling.
I Stop near one, apparently, empty yard. But right there it is flooded with women and children from babies to teenagers. To count all there are no eyes! Kids scurry about to and fro, and seniors strictly show signs: it is impossible to photograph. I obey and start further.
I am surprised with
there Came Kurban Bayram! Senegalese dress up, gather families in the house of parents or the senior relatives, cook festive food, walk, spend time together.
Ya stopped in a casual place, already in twilight to admire the full moon. Suddenly heard sounds of adjusted tools and the strong man's voice speaking in a microphone. Somewhere nearby obviously prepared for a concert.
Ya went to a voice, out of curiosity. A stone's throw away there was a village, and there was the real holiday. Everything occurred as at cinema when you from one reality instantly get to another. Musicians, the high Senegalese played air on improvised stage in the center of the village sodrogal a strong voice, round it people were turned in dance.
For participants of action I too appeared from anywhere, they right there surrounded me, the ring dancing everything contracted and became more dense.
A heavy rain went at night. Clouds closed the moon and spilled on the earth of ton of water, shining the sky with flashes of lightnings.
At dawn I meet fishermen. One of them with pride calls to admire a fresh catch: the boat is already full of shrimps.
Another comes knee-deep into water, throws a network, and right there pulls out. Throws on the earth fish, it is selected by the woman, puts in a bucket. Having filled to top, carries away to the village. Who gets up early …
B Senegal abundance of interesting birds.
I go to the national park which has settled down along the river.
Should manage to reach to Region of Ziguinchor and to find Embassy of Guinea-Bissau.
I Explain
the Following delays too were connected by
At last left Mauritania! Already in Senegal passport control – quickly, and here at customs problems began. It appears, the admission of cars is more senior than 2008 of release to the country is forbidden. But! As well as in any law, there are openings if to pay €250. In an hour the price fell to €150 behind which I was taken specially in bank by Saint-Louis. The bright agent unpacked paper on the color form, the Senegalese customs officer similar to the Hollywood actor put on it some stamps and only then, issued entrance. Insurance in the neighboring village, and — Welkom that Senegal! It was the longest transition of border on my travel, the occupied nearly 12 hours.
Dakar
Senegal head for Dakar, the capital. Are expensive excellent, all around is buried in fresh verdure. If not palm trees and the baobabs meeting on a way, it is possible to think that I somewhere in a midland Russian Federation.
Should stop in any settlement, the car densely is surrounded at once by children. We with Greta look here as the exotic tourists, everyone considers a duty to knock in a window and to tease a dog. I get the camera, the children right there run up in all directions!
Visit Dakar – the next reference point on my travel. There come to the capital Senegal on September 2 – exactly 120 days from the moment of expedition start. 27400 kilometers and 25 countries are passed. "Rally Moscow-Dakar! " — I note about myself, without hiding pleasure and pride. Behind Caucasus, Turkey, Europe and nearly a half West Africa. I fix this event the photo against the most grandiose monument on the continent — "The Renaissance of Africa".
Having regretted that did not use the toll highway, from Dakar I make the way through stoppers, formed by local dealers. The numerous markets which are not finding room on sidewalks and along roadsides, restrict the weight the carriageway. Continually in front of car women with huge capacities on the head, filled to edges bread, eggs and other products, men with clothes or footwear armfuls scurry about. But most of all sellers of sheep slow down movement. On the eve of a Muslim holiday Kurban Bairam them sell the whole herds everywhere, almost to road.
I Trudge slowly after typical Senegalese bus. On its entrance door the conductor and those who did not have a place in salon hangs. From above – baggage of passengers and surely any house living creatures: sheep, rams, hens, and even camels.
Living creatures, it is necessary to tell, transport any transport: on roofs of cars and buses, in luggage carriers and even in a taxi. When from a luggage carrier of a taxi standing near me knock was distributed, I really jumped up from a fright. But the driver, having seen my reaction, slowly opened him, showed contents and cheerfully winked: be not afraid, it only a sheep!
But here and the raging megalopolis behind, I go by villages further. In the center of the big village there is a well, near it women and children, fill with canister water, carry on the yards. In a well-groomed court yard on three-five pise-walled constructions of the roundish or square form, covered with a reed.
B Senegal the polygamy is popular, each spouse needs the certain dwelling. I stop near one, apparently, empty yard. But right there it is flooded with women and children from babies to teenagers. To count all there are no eyes! Kids scurry about to and fro, and seniors strictly show signs: it is impossible to photograph. I obey and start further.
Senegal I am surprised withwith
Senegal For such family holiday I got absolutely incidentally in Kaolak. Stopped near shop, to buy products. Nearby the child began to cry, I started it calming and to speak with it. "You Russian? " — heard a question. Mother of the boy Svetlana — from Moldova, is married to the Senegalese classmate. Arrived all family from Dakar for a holiday. Tradition! Invited me on a visit and acquainted with numerous relatives. The big stone house is full of people – from kids to old men, everything dazzles with bright paints from festive attires, the children's laughter, rustling of female dresses and man-to-man talks is audible. Me treat with a dinner, and Greta perepadayut mutton stones. Ya stopped in a casual place, already in twilight to admire the full moon. Suddenly heard sounds of adjusted tools and the strong man's voice speaking in a microphone. Somewhere nearby obviously prepared for a concert. And here the voice started singing. From where it reached, it was possible to guess only because any signs of life from roads it was not visible. I went to a voice, out of curiosity. A stone's throw away there was a village, and there was the real holiday. Everything occurred as at cinema when you from one reality instantly get to another. Musicians, the high Senegalese played air on improvised stage in the center of the village sodrogal a strong voice, round it people were turned in dance. For participants of action I too appeared from anywhere, they right there surrounded me, the ring dancing everything contracted and became more dense. A then suddenly music stopped and the big circle was formed. I in hands had a microphone. Minute confusion – what to do? And I started singing Russian "Kalinka". Musicians right there picked up simple motive, having added in it the African notes, and people standing by a round dance began to stamp the foot and clap fervently. A heavy rain went at night. Clouds closed the moon and spilled on the earth of ton of water, shining the sky with flashes of lightnings. Terribly. Season of rains in the heat, so and peak of activity of mosquitoes. Despite all precautionary measures – repellents and a mosquito grid, all of them equally bite. Just in case checked existence of pills from malaria and in detail studied the instruction of their application. At a wheel the thought and if I fall ill suddenly came? What then? I am not ready to die. A for the sake of what I am ready to live? For the sake of what I am ready to pass the round-the-world travel? What will be after? For the sake of what I go forward? What for me there is a guiding star? I Ask myself these questions, I brush away tears on cheeks and I remember the key phrase of heroes "The Atlas straightened shoulders": "I swear the life and love to it that I will never live for the sake of other person and never I will ask and I will not force other person to live for the sake of me …". At dawn I meet fishermen. One of them with pride calls to admire a fresh catch: the boat is already full of shrimps. Another comes knee-deep into water, throws a network, and right there pulls out. Throws on the earth fish, it is selected by the woman, puts in a bucket. Having filled to top, carries away to the village. Who gets up early … A I go to the national park which has settled down along the river. In Senegal abundance of interesting birds. I release Greta from a lead, she with a happy look rushes for feathery, got used to silence in the paradise world. I too try to catch beautiful birds in a camera lens, but I do not have enough experience and patience. Nabegavshis much, we get into the car. It is necessary to manage to reach to Region of Ziguinchor and to find Embassy of Guinea-Bissau. It is the following point of my expedition.