Robinzona 2.0

"Paradise" – the word which is worn out today so that some giperbolization of ideas of similar places is quite pardonable. And not so many real "swarms" remained: many of those places which it was still possible to call untouched about twenty years ago, are now captivated by the mass consumer.

But if the "real" travel and chic associate today first of all with color – knowledge, values, crafts, heritage which are far from the things which are ordinary reminding to the person of his wealth and the status, the hope in this case lives in one fishing small village on the Brazilian coast. "the real luxury" can even call it the new capital. The majority about it did not hear though she has to be familiar to the Latin American elite.

Trankozo's located in an hour of a driving from Porto Seguro

where it is possible to reach quickly from Rio de Janeiro, settled down on the tropical Emerald Coast where the Portuguese seafarers for the first time landed. Prior to the beginning of the 1970th, when hippies here came (or "bibilanderos" as them call), this corner State of Bahia was cut off from other Brazil. Now it is the same native earth for "brazilioner" and celebrities running from popular places as for the sunbathed beatniks who and managed to grow rich, in time having bought real estate on one of the tidbits of the Southern hemisphere.

Kuadrado's

– the main square of a small village, her unearthly, pulsing heart – is bordered with multi-colored stone lodges and charming cafes open-air. Moving in this rectangle from a grass and sand, it is possible to be lost in time: somewhere between the colonial past and a bohemian era of the XX century. If not thrones and the helicopters which are occasionally carrying by over the head, and secluded refined boutiques where sell the most fashionable things and expensive pictures, it would be possible to think that in five hundred years changed nothing.

Slowly going on foot towards a beach (cars here are forbidden), locals greet friends, acquaintances and visitors wide with a smile and warm "by dia". Here comedians by bicycles. Here the pedlars trading in straw hats, bright hand-made articles from a tree and the hunters of the dreams who have been spread out on blankets in a shadow of trees on whom settled down. Dancing in a step to guitars, drums and voices of the old fishermen who have got up in a circle under a tamarind, they offer fresh coconut water and chocolate from local cocoa beans.

By the evening everything is filled with life: little shops open the doors, simple wooden little tables of restaurants are decorated with flowers. On the distant end from the abrupt coast the white church XVI (speak, one of the oldest to Brazil). Nearby on the sun play in soccer and children are engaged in capoeira. At first sight all this seems unreal, as on improbably beautiful card.

United by a holiday

That not so with this picture? For certain I missed something, I think to myself. How in this far, fantastic Valkhalla where simple villagers live in harmony with billionaires, avoid various friction? Where all these security guards and gate which have to divide them? Eventually, Brazil for everyone a synonym of problems: pretty often stories about corruptions and a disorder.

But in Trankozo the arrogance and aggression are not welcomed by

. And therefore here rather the atmosphere of a musical festival, than life of the XXI century reigns. Present that you discovered Ibiza, Bali or State of Goa before there arrived crowds of tourists and their mercantile servants with the terrible multystoried hotels. Anything close with that lawlessness which the Chinese money with the coast creates Vietnam, in this small village, certainly, is not present. All because private beaches here are forbidden and more than two floors here do not build. Examining Trankozo's virgin coast, never you will guess that top managers of the international companies and managing directors of hedge funds billionaires here located. Their sites, though, out of doubts, smart, are hidden in the dense jungle behind thin wooden fences.

Here all are united by a holiday, and the richest of inhabitants and guests donate millions for social needs. For example, as told me, the chairman boards of directors the largest hedge fund in Bridgewater Associates world Ray Deylio after visit here forked up for the six-digit sum.

the Sun – on a decline; tinsel and inflaming fires on a big frame awning on Kuadrado hint at fiesta approach. It is a question of one of the festivals oldest in Baiye – San Brash who is annually sponsored by one of local rich men. All village gathers for a holiday which lasts two days, under a melody of the same song achieving of speed as approaching night. Under songs of the fishermen who have gathered in a circle the crowd of the audience expands, totaling already more than hundred people then elders get up and conduct a procession to the festival center.

the Carnival at all the scale grows dim against this festival: the last is more friendly, is not tired out in a framework and looks much more vividly.

One by one develop performances. Local followers of religions gather on dawn in traditional white-blue clothes to a kandomla and umbanda and sing under an ancient rhythm. The procession under sounds of drums goes down, to a beach where, being shaken under music, from songs sends to the sea small wooden boats with flowers, fruit, sweets, aromas, soap and jewelry – gifts to the goddess of the ocean Yemaye.

To sunrise, apparently, all village together rises by top of the nearby hill to bring a huge column with the image of the patroness. Procession turns into a wandering holiday and comes back to Kuadrado where strong men lift a column on ropes under fireworks and fanfares. Usually its falling carries away lives of only "one-two" people, the passerby notices. To United Kingdom anybody would not allow such action, but it is Brazil, and here everything is subordinated to the wild elements.

the Pearl of the jungle

Ya I talk to Bob Shevlin, the co-founder of the main cult hotel Trankozo of UXUA , and Uilbert Das who was the creative director of Diesel. Having been tired of peripetias of the world of fashion, both of them went on searches of simpler and intelligent life – and noticed this forgotten small village. Supporting local handymen and financing local projects (from music lessons to children's schools of capoeira), they became its stronghold. "In Trankozo do not divide itself into groups, – Shevlin tells. – With you will communicate as with all. If you stay here week, people will think that you moved. In two weeks you will have couple. About you will be whispered. Will nickname you".

Externally my interlocutor is not so similar to the person, behind which shoulders successful career in the European fashion houses: dreadlocks on a belt, a colorful undershirt and a bone necklace with several iPods ("one – for the podcasts, the second – for music, the third – for audiobooks"). But here all not what it seems: even their hotel is lost among multi-colored lodges and foliage (at least, outside).

the Five-stars status of hotel is felt by

at once. Not alien to celebrities, participants of ratings of magazine "Forbes" and to shootings for Vogue cover (once I happened to be present on such action, and I can safely tell that such pathetic I still never felt), UXUA with the magnificent baiysky cottages, houses on trees and pools is that place where rich ekomany with taste enjoy Trankozo. There are also specialists in real estate for the continuous accommodation, collected a collection of private country houses. On one of them – Casa Anderson – we also stopped. It Cooper Anderson owns leading of TV channel "CNN" (and the member of a dynasty Vanderbiltov). These bright lodges bought at "bibilanderos", are built from local materials and different artifacts of an antiquity: eucalyptus, a handiwork of Indians patasho, a canvas and cotton which organically fit into a landscape of the jungle. Guests have a rest on terraces, derive pleasure from traditional types of massage, occupations by yoga, walks on wildlife, learn secrets of baiysky kitchen and go down to hotel beach bar for cool kaypiriny and a trip astride along the long desert coast at sunset.

If you want to arrive, come now. Perhaps Trankozo also wins in fight with present excesses but who knows, how many still it will hold on, despite all the spirit and determination. It is paradise in the most correct sense of the word.