In May group of the Syktyvkar cycle tourists has returned from Georgia. In team's line-up there was a listener of school of interethnic journalism Turkina Helena. She has found out whether really Georgians steal brides, love guests and tell long toasts.
Tbilisi – only a facade
to understand Georgia, is not enough to visit Tbilisi. Here in the capital: Wi-Fi and service, funicular and amusement park, galleries and restaurants, taxi and public transport. Georgia we have got acquainted with the main town in the end of a travel. From here, not by bicycles, Borjomi, Batumi, Gori have gone to Jvari Monastery, Mtskheta. But it was already another a little European story filled with other thoughts and <"feelings.32">
As in any big city, to Tbilisi the policy and economy "govern": with tourists speak mainly English, with a lovely smile always offer coffee. We have not noticed special dislike for Russians, except for the texts stuck on all city of "Russia is occupant". Annoying and what in one theater to us was sold by tickets. The lady on cash desk from drama at first pretended that she does not understand either Russian, or English. Then has assumed, the performance in Georgian will not be interesting to you, and in the final surely cut off: there are no tickets! It has appeared, the troupe of opera and ballet theater has gone to tours, and in doll — only 80 places, they are armored long before the beginning of representation. Did not begin to be upset, have satisfied thirst to fine with the pictures Pirosmani in the Georgian National museum. Pirosmanishvili Niko (better known as Pirosmani) — that artist whose romantic feat, is immortalized in the Million Scarlet Roses song.
Without hint
the Group has gathered for a feat Have arrived by
to Vladikavkaz at night. Waited for us two minibuses, in advance armored in Syktyvkar. Have quickly loaded backpacks, stock and have moved <"border.41"> aside the Style of driving of hot southern motorists has frightened
a little. Machines rushed on the abrupt road at reckless speed. When I have presented myself on a trass by bicycle, have thought, apparently, it there was too courageous decision: will go to the first cycle campaign to mountain Georgia? With these thoughts has also fallen asleep.
byTo Ananuri's fortress where the river Aragvi flows, we have reached at six in the morning. Have set up the camp, at once have gone to bed. Closer to ten the shepherd by sight has come years of 60, has told that it is the private territory and it is necessary to pay. We did not begin to be greedy, have chipped in together "for rent", apparently, on two lari (1 lari about 27 rubles). Local money has managed to buy in the exchanger on border. As we have learned later, the territory what on is public, just the man has decided to earn from us.
In the first day for the inexperienced tourist only one rule is: trust team and be attentive. I observed how pack backpacks and skilled cycle travelers distribute equipment — tried to repeat. Then check of wheels, switches, brakes, attempt to sweep with a load — and we already on a route. First it was impossible to enjoy beautiful views and numerous architectural antiquities somehow. Before a campaign, I have read blogs supposedly everything will hurt: knees, hands and that place which (if to trust advertizing) should be helped by a silicone lining on a <"saddle.46"> to
the First point of a route it is a cultural sight, Ananuri's fortress. To it we rose uphill so the main part of group has not decided to ride out bicycles. And without hint on a sports feat we rolled them near ourselves.
the Main structure of fortress — the church of the Dormition of the Theotokos constructed in 1689. Outside — stone carving, inside — the remains of wall paintings. Nearby one more temple — Christ Redeemer's church. Similar atmospheric, attractive places waited for us on a string of a route everywhere: Kveter's fortress, the lock Rattle, the monastery Nekresi on the mountain over the Alazani valley, Saint Nino Bodbe's Monastery near Sighnaghi.
the Confession of the first conducted day
of the Trass relief, brisk so it is possible to forget trainings on city bicycle tracks or sidewalks, "adult" rules work here. Heavy trucks breathed exhaust gases, kicking up road dust and leaving behind a rubber smell. And I instinctively moved to a stony <"edge.53">
— Switch speed! You go on the most difficult, – overtaking, someone from ours shouts.
This phrase from different people and in different variations I heardmany times. Therefore the task No. 1 was to learn to feel the iron horse and will adapt to the rate of <"group.55"> not rises, and strangely enough, descents have even turned out "55" of
the Second testing. When it is necessary upward, everything is clear: you get down with it is big and monotonously you go-go … And here when carries you down, takes the breath away, and you instantly lose feeling of control over a situation. You understand much later, in it all drive, such adrenaline, such energy which you learn to manage.
Breakdowns of the luggage carriers which have not coped under weight of a load and the lowered wheels, I think, you will surprise nobody. And if, to complete a confession about shocks of the first conducted day, then a fright from a roar, the bottle which has fallen to speeds with water. Nevertheless couple more of master classes in installation of baggage to me do not place by experienced tourists at all!
Where bicycles? Or to Georgia do not steal
Have set up the camp in the village of Zhinvali, in the park near a post of police. Tents, a dinner at a fire, hospitable owners, even the mayor Zhinvali has visited us in the evening. We have told about a route, it about the mudflow. It has appeared, the long-liver who was 102 years old recently lives here. We wanted to visit the veteran in the morning and to congratulate on the coming 9 May, Victory Day. But having woken up, have found loss of three <"bicycles.62">
Shocked there were all participants of a campaign, according to information from different blogs, responses of travelers, bicycles it is even possible not to fix on the lock, to Georgia do not steal. Ours have not saved and conducted <"locks.63">
far was not necessary to go To police, about 300 meters from the camp. Therefore all issues were resolved quickly. Employees have examined the territory, have tied up the remained bicycles a yellow tape, have interviewed the victims and at once were engaged in search. We remained on a forced halting day <".64">
When have gone to walk according to Zhinvali, have understood, each passer knows about the Russian tourists and loss of bicycles. Locals went on: "In to Georgia do not steal! It is impossible. These people will be punished". Suggested the help to bring, for example, to Tbilisi; see to the place where do the most tasty khinkalis; find the exchanger or treat with wine.
Also accidentally we have got acquainted with benevolent Zaza Gariashvili. He was the director of Zhinvalsky recreation center and has invited to an excursion. Here, in recreation center, all like the good old days: a stucco molding on walls, velvet curtains, shabby chairs, jewelry of paper. Despite the Soviet surroundings, rural club the place where, still, cultural life boils. Itself Zaza teaches children to play national musical instruments, takes out most talented "wards" on the Georgian and international <"competitions.66">
Bicycles have found under the bridge on road to Tbilisi in the late afternoon. They say, the mayor has personally bypassed all village and has involved in search of inhabitants. Has surprised me that ordinary passersby, people who see us for the first time sincerely endured, tried to help. And if not loss of bicycles, we would not stop in Zhinvali, have not seen the true Georgian hospitality which is shown, at all, not in florid <"toasts.67">
the Final sit-round gathering at a fire in Zhinvali has reminded me a meeting of old friends in spite of the fact that on a spark people of different professions and age came. Someone worked as the long-distance truck driver to Komi Republic and with nostalgia remembers taste of cloudberries, someone did military service in the territory of Russian Federation, at someone relatives live in Moscow and Krasnodar.
has tried to tellYa that this case has told a lot of things to us about the Georgian people:
— it is not important, the Georgian or the Russian, has got into trouble, it should be helped. There are universal values which out of cultures and out of <"policy.72">
the Georgian of years of 30, apparently, it has stared At me called Alexander and has asked:
— And you unless did not know? Adam was Georgian, and Eve – the Komi. It has arrived to Georgia by bicycle …
I under a general laughter we have continued to compose <"toasts.75">
It there was a surprising day and surprising evening when Georgians and Russians sang "Katyusha", embraced, exchanged phones and invited each other on a visit.
Sit down, Sidorov Roman!
day has not passed in a travel without traditional greeting of a gamardzhob. It overtook us on parking and on a trass, in the cities and absolutely small villages. Drivers and passengers leaned out of automobile windows to cry out treasured: "Gamardzhoba! You, from where? Where do you go?" We lost this film ten times in a day, often the answer to them was not important, and at some point I even began to be tired of "politeness". Only you will begin to plunge into a landscape as you will be frightened right there by a shrill automobile signal. But also you get used to it over time as you get used to bark of dogs in rural areas who graze herds of a livestock. It was terrible to drive also in an infinite cloud of the bleating lambs as it was on the way in <"Ahmet.81">
— my grandmother had four lambs! — I shout, moving down from the <"mountain.82">
— Choose any four, take away with yourself — the owner of herd answers — I Love Russian Federation, Russian Federation – generous soul! I am a Russian and always I recognize Russians, I am called <"Yura.83">
Has turned out that the man all life lives in the Pankisi Gorge Georgia (descendants of immigrants from Chechen Republic since the 16th century live there), defines itself how the ethnic Chechen. He was born on April 12, 1961 therefore called it Zurab, Yura that is, in honor of Gagarin. Breeds sheep, in its herd more than 500 heads now though to sell meat and wool now especially there is no place, according to Zurab, the country endures deep <"crisis.84">
Because of serious breakdown to us was necessary to stop the passing car. On one of descents, my tire with noise has blown up, and rhemes the master with a spare has far left forward. I and the head of cycle group Sidorov Roman have loaded bicycles in old Ford and have gone to the next settlement, to look for shop with spare parts. The driver Avto Mamuashvili admitted that he spoke Russian about 20 years ago when he did military service, and his passengers (the man with the boy of years of six-seven) neither in Russian, nor in English do not understand.
On road the Georgian has told that they do not steal brides any more, to the aul can take away only under preliminary approval of the girl. Has told that in New year they decorate a Christmas tree, paint eggs for Easter and was surprised that to Russian Federation do the same. Suddenly Avto has darted a glance at a backpack Sidorov Roman where the English letters have written "Sidorov" and has asked:
— And what is your surname?
— Sidorov Roman
— Sit down, Sidorov Roman!
I we have laughed.
— I remember this surname from the Krokodil magazine, about Sidorov Roman there are a lot of Russian jokes, – have justified myself the <"Georgian.93"> have made Avto's
"93" for us much: has taken up to Akhmeta, has shown where to buy spare parts, has issued sim cards on the name and every day called to learn, whether all at us as it should be. He waited for the visit of us in the village of Arashenda, was ready to feed and place with himself all group, and these are 23 persons. But because of force majeurs and breakdowns we were very much beaten out from the schedule and simply have not managed to glance to ours the <"genatsval.94">
340 instead of 500
of Restriction is learned to think creatively. Where if not in a campaign you see pasted by an adhesive tape to a bicycle frame a bottle with water or bananas? Or the volume kettle on a wheel which is rolled up by an insulating tape? And in it nuts, fruit, a cosmetics bag or tools … In a cycle tour all not just like that. Points, for example, by no means, not only from the sun, and that stones and insects did not get into eyes.
from fauna we have not faced dangers though few times saw snakes, bats, have caught in a tent of one tick. And the night field of glowworms will remain, probably, to the most touching an impression from Georgia. The small hardly noticeable consecrated points in a grass I have noticed during watch … one, second, third sparkle of the size of a mote and them the whole field here!
Along a route we went well and cheerfully in spite of the fact that bicycles on mountain ways broke, in cafe quite often there was not enough food for such big group. In the remote place Georgia are not present such concepts as service or fast food restaurants yet. Therefore in hostels often there was no water, the spring of a bed reached a floor, and the lunch dragged on for four hours. But that's the essence that the tourist is an absolute optimist and not for all the tea in China will not exchange active recreation for <"all inclusive.99">
Undoubtedly, it was a tour not only cultural impressions, but also gastronomic revelations. Kharcho, khinkali, chakhokhbil, lobio, chakopul, khachapuri … All this freshly cooked, burning, only from the furnace. Lilac glossy eggplants, big-bellied red sweet pepper, juicy carrots, sugar tomatoes, onions, garlic, cheese, fragrant herbs and spices – all paints and tastes have intertwined in Georgian <"cuisine.100">
We very much were upset that we not always managed to pass the planned 50 km a day. Not tell that our group was contemplate and low-speed, but something from the very beginning was not glued. Alas, we have not coped with a sports task, instead of 500 kilometers have passed only 340.
We have not seen the sea, Region of Kakheti – Telavi, often went sightseeing only from far away. We have reduced a route branch that in Tbilisi to stop by after all by bicycle, but not on public transport.
the Capital — only one party of a medal, a beautiful facade of the country. But, in the remote place, we managed to see another Georgia which forever will remain in memory surprising generous, kind people, the Green Mountains with snow tops, florid grape thickets, delightful smells of the blossoming <"meadows.105">
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the Team thanks for training of the honored traveler Russian Federation, the head of the educational and methodical center for tourism of the Syktyvkar state university of Pitirim Sorokin Gazizov Damir . And also author and project manager of Velogruziya Sidorov Roman.
Turkina Helena