"On fulfilled in Shanghai to the scheme we even arrived to the airport that on a place to wait for morning flight in the evening. We relaxed, it and became our mistake. After obtaining the difficult visa to South Korea we solved, what we will depart to tourist and visa-free Vietnam New release of diaries about round-the-world travel.
— No, we yet do not know, we will solve on a place where further, — we joyfully answered on a front desk. Such turn of business obviously did not suit the representative of airline. Asking accompanying questions, it several times left to confer with the administration. We needed to book the return tickets, but we were too lazy. Forty minutes later with words: "Company does not bear responsibility for possible problems after an arrival" — us registered. Being sure that without us will not depart, all of us arranged running on long galleries Incheon. You never know.
— Stop how departed? And we? It is any nonsense! — bewildered and anger we questioned the worker of airline.
— Landing to flight ended 10 minutes ago. I regret. To take away baggage, pass for me, — with a smile on duty the girl answered.
Dumbfounded and badly thinking after a sleep debt, we reserve evening tickets already to Bangkok and we keep within on the same benches. Tickets not cheap, but there is no place to disappear, to Hanoi is even more expensive. Further — it is more …
than— Svirid Yegor, wake up! Visas to Thailand already as do not do hundred years after an arrival, only in advance! Us stupidly will not let in! — Sanek who has decided half asleep to look a visa situation for citizens Belarus shouted. Having confusedly explained a problem, we achieved the impossible — cancelled tickets and returned money for an hour prior to registration for flight.
— Kota Kinabalu — it in general where? — I asked the companion.
— Figs it knows, Malaysia. It precisely visa-free. It is the only option.
— Bronim? — not assured already of anything, Sanek asked.
— Bronim! — it is stultified yawning, answered ya.
Kota Kinabalu. The first drink of tropical air — unforgettably
as a result we arrived not simply to Malaysia, and on its island part — Borneo (indon. Kalimantan). Bordering by land on Indonesia, states State of Sarawak and Sabah occupy all northwest of the huge island. The plans which have exchanged upside down at detailed judgment appeared even in more logical route. Having rounded Kalimantan and having transported, say, to Bali, we could move to Hanoi, one by one crossing islands of the South of the Malay Archipelago. Stuffy equatorial night expected us at a ladder. In weather-beaten faces straight off pakhnulo moisture and heat. As well as the first sex, people are not able to forget the first drink of tropical air. Kota Kinabalu it appeared the tidy town which is settling down on the coast of the South China Sea. Having removed hosted, we almost slept days after nervous scrapes in Incheon.
— Give the Korean roller we will stir up so: let's sit down under an umbrella on a beach and, drinking cocktails, we will broadcast about the Korean tin, supplying with inserts from work, — Sanek offered. Pogugliv, we quickly found a suitable place. The island Gaya, nearby about Kota Kinabalu, corresponded to all director's ideas of the companion. Enterprising local every morning delivered tourists to the island North. There among baunti the public stuck till the evening upon return to sate tapes of the website "Instagram". It is expensive and uninteresting. Having approached to companies fishermen, we offered the 15th ringgit to the one who will throw us on the island. After hot debate one fellow agreed, but with the reservation that delivers us only to the village and him at all does not excite how we will return.
Island Gaya. From what we decided, what they poor?
our feet uncertainly went on a shaky scaffold. In many places the rotted-through boards caused serious fears to fail. Houses settling down on piles were connected by labyrinths of floorings, forming freakish streets. Around catastrophic abundance of garbage. We looked not less fantastically, than Papuans in a disco in Smolevichakh. There it became clear why guides, greedily describing paradise landscapes, words do not speak about the village. Usually such places normal tourists fear like the plague. Pursuing a main aim to be photographed and get hungry, they hardly will want to risk, receiving such unplanned food for uma.
Vecherom life in the village was in full swing. The youth played volleyball, and come back after work in the sea seniors grandly smoked, sitting at huts. Women strove on economy, shouting at noisy children. The smell of fried fish filled to the district. To admit, it felt ill at ease when at our emergence the crowd of the people froze. For a moment children became silent even. It became silent so that it seemed as if I hear how the Adam's apple of the companion nervously moves. However after short confusion on all faces there were wide smiles. Us surrounded a dense ring and in eager rivalry showed familiar phrases in English: "Hi, friend! How are you? Where are you going? "
Poverty happens different, and it not an occasion to be embittered and closed. And from what I took, what they poor? Whether not therefore, what the quantity of a junk available for them does not correspond to my concept about prosperity? We could learn much at these people — first of all to the easy relation to life. Having politely refused the offered lodging for the night, we at last reached the planned beach. Treasured bungalows were fenced with a serious fence that nothing could prevent paradise rest.
— Something, Svirid Yegor, I will not be able to be engaged after everything in peacockery with cocktails and chaise lounges. The hell with him, we will remove later and in a different way, — Sasha told while I considered, as though to tell the companion the same. — Better tomorrow we will return to the village, and that did not make any picture.
in the Morning of adults we any more did not find, but the ubiquitous children attacked on us with new energy. I for some reason remembered episodes of the childhood when each separately taken day was something absolutely unique. Probably, to keep a children's view of things — the most important and at the same time complex challenge. A lot of things videv, trough valleys, having felt, we, adult, already estimate everything through an experience prism, losing thereby the main thing — purity vospriyatiya.
Soydya from a flooring, we on ankles stuck in garbage. The local guy answered our question of quantity of it, senselessly what to clean. Inflow will bring again. In total road back in my head words Karlene George turned: "And what if it is valid, on a grand design of a planet, mankind only the tool for productions plasticity? What, if this only distinct explanation of our parasitic stay here? "
of Borneo. No swim! Crocodiles!
After an arrival to Malaysia we did not find arches from tent which always were fastened sideways a backpack. It was offensive, purchase new at all was not in our plans. But there was no place to disappear. Having bypassed all city, we bought the only tent which by miracle has appeared on sale. With easy nervous trembling we got out to the country, that in unusual conditions of right-hand movement to begin a self-locking device. Banana trees, palm trees, incredible humidity and plus thirty five — in such surroundings we did it for the first time. Having been to Kota Kinabalu, we had two options of continuation of travel. The first — to move on the East to the city Tawau where, having passed water border, to step into the Indonesian part of the island. The second — to go on the southwest to Kuching and to get to Indonesia on the ground.
After attentive studying of a situation the second option disappeared. The way on the southwest was blocked small, but by very proud visa spot — Brunei. Road to Kuching passes exactly through an oil sultanate, to go round which it is impossible. Without having desire to be worn out with visas, we went to the East. Officially the majority of the population Malaysia practises Islam, but it not that case when the religion starts feelers to all spheres of public life. To such herself "Islam - lightly" with the girlfriends standing at a stop one of which can be in a hijab, and the second — in a miniskirt. The Malaysian self-locking device is unambiguously magnificent! Not bad knowing English, smiling drivers with great pleasure help travelers.
We went quickly and cheerfully, again feeling pleasure of distances. Fortunately, Kalimantan — this that place where the wild nature and ubiquitous plantations of an olive palm tree yet still remained was not destroyed by all. Having moved down from the main route a little deep into, you get to the real jungle.
— No swim! Crocodiles! (It is impossible to float! Crocodiles! ) — the driver warned, seeing as our eyes at the sight of the river lit up. Because of reptiles in fresh reservoirs of the island to bathe really dangerously. We put tent in the equatorial wood, with delight and vigilance listening to sounds of the night jungle. It seemed that the wood — is one big organism with incredibly difficult scheme of activity which to us it is not allowed to comprehend yet. Each shout of the night animal, each smell, each fruit decaying on the earth — is the most important and integral part of all symphony of life! Borneo is mysterious and beautiful, Borneo live!
Na to fork from Sandakan the car stopped. With curiosity and surprise of steam of beautiful eyes looked at us from salon. It was Kean. She beautiful, well speaks English and went to absolutely improper party. Having a little communicated and having treated at parting with ice cream, the girl disappeared. But twenty minutes later it unexpectedly returned and Kina's family invited in gosti.
Bolshaya worked on house construction. The new house was built near parental and intended for the elder brother. With clever faces of architects we with Sasha watched drawings. Upon termination of it there has to be the spacious two-storeyed building which socle will be on piles. Kina has some sisters and two elder brothers. Vazer collects baizes for local racing team, Safar grows up the presents fighting petukhov.
Posle a dinner the head of the family organized the whole delegation on delivery us on a local beach. There at last, without being afraid to be the eaten crocodiles, we have in plenty a good swim and nanyryalis. I think, we were the first foreigners with whom these people happened to communicate. Life in the far-away country which does not have even an outlet to the sea, was presented to them fantastic. It seemed, all is interesting to children: from the Belarusian language and kitchen to the reasons of absence of wives at us! But the question of religion entered us into an easy stupor. Without knowing degree of religiousness of people, we risked the direct answer them to offend.
— Parents Christians, — I began.
— Means, you are a Christian!
— No!
— As is not present? Who then? — was taken aback Kean.
— I love the world and people. I have enough of it, — tried as it is possible to answer more delicately I.
having A little thought, smiling Kean told:
— This is a good philosophy of life. I like (It is good vital philosophy. It is pleasant to me)
withTawau
In consulate of the city Tawau, having filled in necessary questionnaires and having paid collecting (for $50), we within an hour received the Indonesian visas for a period of two months. Generally, to Belarusians for thirty days of the visa are not necessary, but we at all did not represent, how many we will stay in the country. Accurate planning not our fad therefore we made secure. In the morning of the next day, having bought tickets for the ferry, we otchalili.
the Island the Cockroach. Garbage became even more
Honor all east the coast of Kalimantan — these are a boggy jungle with impassable thickets of the mangrove woods. All local message occurs by means of water transports. Having safely reached the island Nunukan, we fondly thought that the transfer to the following point will be similar. Observing as load unreasonable klunka on the shaky boat, we cheerfully joked. It seemed that each following feed bag will be the cause of flooding. But after command to take places desire yumorit somehow was gone. It appeared, a separate vessel for passengers it is not provided.
We set foot on firm land of the island the Cockroach after the three-hour road thriller. Anger, indignation, fear, rage, humility, pleasure, delight … It seemed, I endured everything, and in the most inconceivable combinations. We floated across the Sulawesi Sea through a train of passages and a zatok. The distance from a board to water was no more palm, and at travel with "oncoming traffic lane" the vessel fairly scooped. But the most terrible was not it. All froze when the motor and the captain as if the rope-walker, made the way to it on a board became deaf. With bated breath, passengers with horror leaned back to the opposite side to manage to create a counterbalance. Gruzhenny chock-full the boat was strongly shaken and at any time could turn over. Animal self-preservation united all, from grandmothers peasants to the Belarusian tramps.
Indonesia was where treshovy neigbours Malaysia. At the sight of us everyone became the taxi driver, the speculator in foreign currency, the owner of hotel. Malaysian "hellou, frend" Mr." was transformed in local "hellou. It became difficult to move a self-locking device. Having removed hosted, we with Sasha decided to look round and correct further plans. Klap's town was typical and not especially remarkable place. Rather well-groomed central street was the wildest contrast with all the others. Garbage became even more. Five times per day, rattling loudspeakers, apparently, still times of the prophet, devout all city called for a Mohammedan prayer. It was pleasant to Sank. Being tastefully tightened by a cigarette, the companion found something calming in these sounds. The increased influence of Islam was felt in everything. Huxley's ambiguous statement here did not seem such already disputable: "The person entirely supports religion until will visit rather religious country. Then it starts supporting entirely sewerage, the car and the minimum salary" .
Priderzhivatsya strategy on movement on the South of Kalimantan it was fraught with loss of money and time. Having wholly tasted authenticities, we arranged the next planning meeting.
— Drove further! We already looked at Kalimantan. Will be farther as. It is better to leave time for Bali, Java, Sumatra. Flight all the same is not more expensive than the ferry, — Sasha sensibly argued.
it was difficult forto disagree With the companion especially as to Bali I was waited by dream of all my life — surfing.
byChose the cheapest hosted and did not lose
of Bali it appeared a little other, than we represented it. Stoppers, crowds of tourists, an overpopulation — all this did not fit into our idea of a paradise place. However there was something bewitching in this island of cults, waves and laziness. Ethnically and mentally Bali and other Indonesia — different planets. Balineses are incredibly lazy. Smoking a cigarette, they are capable to stick the whole day in a hammock. I think, it would be possible to remove top reality show, having lodged them together with Koreans.
of Prosherstiv of Booking.com, we chose the cheapest hosted. Four dollars per day, let and in the general room without conditioner — it magically for the resort. From start it became clear — we got to the address. When a minute of acquaintance later one of workers suggested to chip in together for vodka, the last doubts dissipated. Having learned that we are Belarusians, the owner Bernie accurately issued the abusive phrase in Russian. Later, having pensively rolled up eyes and having giggled, buddy explained that there was at him a love and called it Svetlana.
the Ethnic players of lodgers were constantly changed by, but frame was invariable: couple of Scots, two Chinese women, two malayziyka, Spaniard, Japanese, Pole, Frenchman and two Belarusians. Every evening Australian Bridzhita came to hang out with youth. The solid pension together with lack of prejudices allowed it to enjoy life with might and main. Zealously fulfilling the fees, madam were accompanied everywhere by the baliysky gigolo Made. Local children framed this international vinaigrette, resembling anyone, only not on workers hosted.
It was sanatorium of a Satan! The alcohol rivers, music, the dancings squealing in the pool of the girl, appear, we on shootings of the youth comedy where The Offspring will play to credits. Every night this orgy repeated. Sometimes, looking at tired faces at supper, appear, that will be exact today silently. But someone's fingers struck again on strings, and someone's palms tapped on the shoulder … Balineses the most musical people in the world. It seems, all of them are born with a guitar. I remember how the casual courier, having brought a parcel, sat down by us and some hours selflessly played. I saw how Berney sings, listeners are not necessary to him, listeners are not necessary to none of them. Music for the sake of music. There is an inexplicable magic in how the sound which has escaped from the smoked sheaves is capable to inspire and zavorazhivat.
Ya became the. But it occurred not at once. "to Go with me (we will go with me)", — were whispered by Dhoni, having taken away me away. We rose upward on an abrupt metal ladder. By the secret rule an attic — the only place where it is impossible for lodgers. It was related something to dedication. Ten people, sitting on a floor, silently passed round a smoking roll-up. Nearby the dinner remains, dirty mattresses, there are a lot of pictures. The empty hammock at some distance stretched between beams. Usually they did not appear all gang therefore in the bottom of them it seemed less.
Having sat down and having crossed feet, I was simply given to a current. Hot night, far noise of the resort, unfamiliar constellations of the southern hemisphere. I somewhere on a roof on the edge of the earth. Around the people who are fancifully speaking unfamiliar language. Thoughts of it plunged into delight and at the same time demented. From Dhoni's explanation I at last understood a local order of things. This attic all life was a place of gathering of children. Over time their leader Bernie redeemed a site and made on it hosted. In fact, for guys changed nothing except that they had a work. Many live here constantly because to go they have no place.
It also is life
Fastening Lish, I look at waves. Here they not so such, as on the sea. Ocean. Everything is too cinematic. I am smiled and winked by beautiful girls. Suntanned children give five, emphasizing my belonging to something. Feeling as though it is strong kurnul, but mind is incredibly sharp. Later time you understand, about what all these movies, books, songs. In total where is wider than the subcultural phenomenon with its esthetics and external attributes. For this short moment, there are neither you, nor waves, only a ball of fire, borne power of elements. It more abruptly than any stimulators. It is a pure high. It is life in it kontsentrirovanno - not divorced look.
Two weeks we stayed in Kuta. The sachet categorically did not like Bali, but, knowing about my long dream, the companion waited. I registered in surf school where six occupations comprehended elements. It appeared that my skills in a skateboarding and a snowboard only a hindrance. Physical fish soup, plasticity, coordination — is the base. Further such abstract concept as a chuyka on which pumping years are necessary, and it is frequent also life follows. At me it turned out though hardly could be in a different way. How many I remember, me always pulled to water. It is strange that I was born in the Volkovyssky area, instead of somewhere on East Timore.
Baliyskiye days of Sank were simple, but romantics are not deprived. Honestly otkutiv night, by noon the companion went to investigate wild beaches and to remove beauty. Bought in Seoul the chamber opened new opportunities before the companion. Rent of mopeds considerably simplified and reduced the price of our island life. Bali — it not resort small villages on the ocean coast, and rather continuous building with impregnations of rice fields and rare reserves. To move on something, except mopeds, there zatrudnitelno.
Otprazdnovav the most freaky Christmas in our life, we left the island. Two weeks on one place — it too, even for Bali. Ahead the beauty Java with its volcanoes and stern temper.